Day 1 - Arrival in Athens

Hotel - Electra Metropolis 

Our travel day started on Thursday at 8 am heading to the airport, and ended 27 hours later. This included a 9-hour layover at Dulles (that was only supposed to be 5 hours, but was extended due to mechanical issues). The waits at the airport, though, were made better with the Priority Pass that lets us spend hours in the airport lounges instead of at the gates. The pass was a perk of our travel credit card, and I truly wish we had gotten it sooner. We figure that the free food and drinks in the lounges will offset the annual cost of the card. 

After a fitful night in the air, we landed in Athens and then spent 2+ hours winding through the passport control line. However, as I mentioned in my FB post, the horrible part of international travel (the actual traveling to/from) is like child birth in that it is soon forgotten. We left passport control and were greeted by our driver who pointed out places of interest on our way to the hotel.

We felt much better after showers, and had a lovely dinner at the Metropolis Roof Garden which had views of the Acropolis. It is now 8 pm, so we can safely crash and get some sleep before our scheduled activities tomorrow.

Day 2 - Acropolis Hill & Museum

Our travel agent (Carrie Millunzi) arranged the private tours in Athens through Original Senses, and we were VERY pleased with today's guide (Pantelis). He met us at the hotel and walked us through the Plaka District to Acropolis Hill, discussing the history of Democracy and Theatre (both of which, of course, originated in Athens). The slow trek up Acropolis Hill took us past the Theatre of Dionysus and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, where Pantelis included some more modern history into his re-telling of Greek, Trojan, and Persian war game theory. The entire walk up was absolutely fascinating. However, unlike the Luxor and Dendera temples of Egypt, the temples atop the Acropolis are closed off from tourists. So if you don't have a guide filling you in on the details, you wouldn't see them up close.

After exploring the top, we walked down to the Acropolis Museum, which is architecturally brilliant. The third floor walls are mostly glass so that you can see the Parthenon, and the entire floor is a recreation of the Parthenon - with a lot of the original pieces. Of course, MOST of the Parthenon is in the British Museum - looted throughout history by thugs like Lord Elgin and his ilk.

After our tour ended, we walked back over to Plaka for lunch at Diogenes, which - on this chilly day - was perfect for outdoor seating. After some rest at the hotel, we headed back out for dinner at Grande Dame Athenian Taverna - small, charming, and delicious. We left the restaurant at 9:00 pm, just as it was really starting to fill up. Our friends Lis and Simon told us years ago that a proper European dinner doesn't begin until 9:00 (or even 10:00), so Keith and I sadly know that we will never be proper Europeans (because we'll be asleep by 10 pm local time). Although... last night at 10:30 pm a marching band (yes, with the big drums, horns, etc.) was marching from restaurant to restaurant outside the hotel for tips. I think it may have been an extortion scheme because (as a business owner) I would have been paying them to march away!

All in all, a perfect day!

Day 3 - Flavorful Athens

Today we had a food tour scheduled that was so much more! We started at a Chatzi, a charming pastry shop that is only one of two places that serve Greek coffee in the traditional way: cooked in copper cups in sand. In additional to coffee, we had a variety of sweets and pastries that were simply unbelievable.

From Chatzi, we walked through Plaka again towards Metropolitan Square where we learned the history of Archbishop Damaskinos of Athens, a man of principle who stood up against the Nazis and protected Jews by registering the as Greek Orthodox.

Our next stop was Koukouvaya (Owl) for cocktails. After that we walked across the street to Hoocut for souvlaki, and then strolled through the Psyri neighborhood looking at cafes and murals. We ended the tour with honey balls, and a full appreciation of Athens.

For dinner we headed to the Art Lounge on the top floor of the New Hotel. It was too cold (for Keith) to sit on the balcony, but the inside was cozy and the service/food were fantastic. Then, being so close to the Parliament building, we walked over to watch the Changing of the Guard (one of the weirdest performances I've ever seen). 

Day 4 - Begin Cruise - Windstar Star Legend

After our  Scandinavian cruise on a large ship in 2017, we were DONE with cruises (you can read my final thoughts about this on the last page of that blog). However, during our trip to Egypt in 2022 we took a delightful small ship cruise down the Nile, so we're giving small ships another try.

They had me at "free wifi," but also From the website:

This all-suite yacht completed renovation as part of the $250 Million Star Plus Initiative  to provide more of what our guests love. New public areas, including two new dining venues, a new spa, elevated pool, and fitness area. The yacht also boasts all new bathrooms in every suite and a new category of Star suites, featuring a new layout. With ocean views and at least 277 square feet of suite comfort, Star Legend is the perfect yacht for cruising the Dardanelles and into scenic fjords from the serenity of your suite.

Carrying only 312 guests, Star Legend still tucks into small ports like Sinop and Honfleur or narrow waterways like the Corinth Canal. We can’t wait to welcome you on board for your next 180 degrees from ordinary adventure!

I'll definitely provide an update at the end regarding my thoughts on this line.

Day 5 - Five Senses of Mykonos

Unfortunately, our stop at Mykonos was changed due to wind(?). We were diverted to Kafplion which, honestly, is NOT a destination. However, making the most of it, we strolled around the port town, and found a nice little promenade lined with cafes where we sat and people/cat-watched while drinking coffee and reading books. 

Day 6 - Knossos Palace and the Archaelogical Museum (Heraklion)

This tour of Europe's first civilization was fantastic -- and if you've ever read the story of Minotaur in the labyrinth, the site brings the myth to life. I had not realized that the Minoan civilization was so old, and I really enjoyed learning about it from an educated guide.

Our travel agent arranged private tours for us in Athens and Instanbul, but we're doing group excursions while on the cruise. Probably will be out last cruise. We'll see. LOL!

Day 7 - Acropolis of Lindos (Rhodes)

The Colossus of Rhodes no longer stands - in fact it only stood for about 66 years - but the island still has quite a bit to see. We chose to visit the Acropolis of Lindos (about 1 hour from the port in Rhodes) and the charming village at its base. I am not exaggerating when I say that the climb up is the hardest climb I've ever done (and I've climbed Boney Mountain, but a bit of time has passed since I did that, so...) . The stairs were nearly vertical at times, and I am just grateful I made it to the top alive to enjoy the views.

Now it's time to take a shower and a nap, but recovery is going to take a hot minute.

Day 8 - Rhodes - Day on the Ship

After yesterday's grueling hike, we decided to stay on the ship (docked at Rhodes) and just relax. So we looked at the medieval fortress from our deck chairs and enjoyed overpriced massages. Now we're off to a "barbecue" of some sort which should be VERY interesting. #TexasStyle? #NorthCarolinaStyle? #MissouriStyle? Happy Friday!

Day 9 - Kalesi & Mausoleum (Bodrum, Turkey)

The Bodrum Kalesi (Castle) provided some of the best views we've seen to date! And like much in the Middle East, it has buildings (and re-buildings) of various historical time periods - from 11th century BCE to the Medieval years, with a lot of the statuary and goods looted by British thugs. Everywhere we have been, every single tour guide says, "You can see the original in the British Museum." I'm not sure that I'll ever be able to visit the British Museum again without being escorted out for snarky comments.

The Mausoleum at Halicarnassus was one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, but just a few of the stones and footprint remain today (pictures below). Time marches on, but the history-lover in me truly wishes for time travel.

Day 10 - Ephesus and Ancient Houses (Kusadasi, Turkey)

This tour was amazing. Since Keith and I grew up Baptist, we were quite familiar with the name Ephesus (from Ephesians in the Bible), so seeing it come to life was special. Of course, knowing how mankind distorts history and twists it to his own purposes, we're a bit more skeptical now. For instance, while we do think that Mary and John MAY have lived here, it also wouldn't surprise us if later generations made those facts up for "Mary slept here" pilgrimages. HOWEVER, we do think that the events outlined in Acts 19 (a riot led by Demetrius against Paul) happened - and they happened at the Grand Theater (pictured below).

This tour took us along the Marble Road, where we saw ruins (of a variety of civilizations over thousands of years), the terrace houses of the Roman elite, the Library of Celsus, and the Grand Theater that seats 25,000 and where Paul was supposed to address the Ephesians. 

We came back to this ancient area for a special dinner at the Odean Theater and a chamber music concert. 

Day 11 - Monastery and Cave of St. John (Patmos)

Patmos is a beautiful little island that has made the most of its place in history. The tour of the monastery (built in 1088) was good, and seeing the cave where John (no one knows exactly WHICH John) wrote the book of Revelation was cool. But viewed through the lens of the harm that religion has caused over the centuries through manipulation of human emotions (and which we in the United States are seeing in real time), we couldn't get all that excited.

We did have to hold our laughter in when one of the religious ladies in our group asked a shop proprietor if he had any medals or paintings with John's face. John - again, no one really knows WHICH John - who arrived on the island in the 1st century of the common era. The look on the shop owner's face was priceless - and being Greek, his answer was curt: Of course not.

Final thoughts on the cruise

Although cruises are a great option for families, we gave up big ship cruises for ecological and irritation issues (wi-fi charges in the amount of a mortgage payment being the major irritant). However, after our wonderful river cruise down the Nile in 2022, we decided that maybe a "small" cruise ship would be an option. A bit of research led us to Windstar, a fleet of small ships/"yachts" that have fewer than 300 people.

The pros of this cruise: 

• Small population

• Free wi-fi (about damn time)

• Very friendly staff (not for tips, either, since tips are included in the price)

• Restful

• Good restaurants

• No casinos

• No photographers - the only time they had a photographer was the Ephesus dinner, and they gave everyone that picture for free.

• No up-selling on anything.

• Very low-key with announcements. We think there was some sort of entertainment every night, but we never went.

• No kids (this cruise would have been a nightmare for a family)

The cons:

• This particular ship was a little shabby. If the above pros appeal to you, definitely check out Windstar's newer fleet.

• I am very particular to smells, and because it's a small ship you could smell the various scents of life (especially at port)

• For us, there was a lot of wasted time (true of any cruise). We used it to read and nap, but if you don't like to read or nap this particular line doesn't offer much more.

All-in-all, Keith and I have decided that we're just not ocean/sea cruise people. We still might do a river cruise, but we're done with being on the open seas.

Day 12 - Return to Athens / Fly to Istanbul

Hotel - 10 Karakoy - Lovely hotel and great location! See last notes regarding walking around the area.

Day 13 - Private tour with Emre Aygur (most of the descriptions below are cribbed right from our travel agent's plans... but I've added asides in places):

Today’s tour started out with Emre asking us about our interests (history/timelines/chronology of events). Then he tooks us to start at the Roman Hippodrome, which used to be one of the Roman World's largest stadiums where chariot races and gladiator fights took place.

Next was the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii), the masterpiece of 17th century Ottoman imperial mosque architecture; famous for its unique, handmade, original Iznik Tiles, impressing visitors with their rich, predominant blue colors and oriental patterns, which have become collective items auctioned at celebrated houses like the Sotheby’s.

Then we proceeded to the Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya) built by Emperor Justinian in 537 AD as the biggest and the most impressive Christian cathedral of its style. It is one of the most extraordinary masterpieces in the history of world architecture. This awesome building inspired countless generations with its colossal definition of what the ideal interior space in a domed basilica should be, and with its innovations in weight-support and construction techniques. This exemplifies the very best of Byzantine, Renaissance, Christian and Islamic Art, due to Hagia Sophia’s unique religious and cultural heritage. **He built it to pacify the people after killing 30,000 civilians AT ONE TIME for daring to protest. READ MORE HERE.

We stopped nearly for lunch and a rest...

Then headed to the magnificent Topkapi Palace, the first residence of the Ottoman Sultans for about 400 years, perfectly nestled at the Historical Peninsula where they ruled three continents and seven seas. Currently, Topkapi Palace offers its visitors great displays of the Ottoman Family Dynasty Collections including; 86 carat Kasikci (Spoonmaker’s) Diamond, the Topkapi Dagger, The Golden Throne, The Holy Relics and many more. We did NOT wait in line for the Diamond and Dagger - but everything else was amazing (even if crowded).

From there we went below the city to the 6th century Underground Cistern, perhaps the most unusual structure in Istanbul, which exhibits the engineering marvels that solved water supply problems of the Byzantines.

Next up was the Grand Bazaar (Kapalicarsi), which almost caused me to have a panic attack. No bazaar, however, is more dazzling than the Grand Bazaar, built in 1461, and has been in service ever since. Along with magnificent mosque complexes, the mother of all bazaars was a monument to the “Rise of Istanbul”- the great master plan of the Turks for the rejuvenation and reanimation of an old imperial capital. It contains 4,000 shops, employing more than 20,000 people all under one roof. Everything imaginable is for sale including; gold and silver jewelry, rugs, carpets, antiques, tiles, leather, souvenirs, but just seeing and experiencing this mother of all bazaars is worth the trip.

Our final visit was the Spice Market, also known as the Egyptian Bazaar, a vibrant and aromatic marketplace. Dating back to the 17th century, this historic market offers a rich variety of spices, herbs, dried fruits, nuts, and traditional Turkish delights. It's a must-visit destination for experiencing the exotic flavors and scents of Istanbul. About 3' in, I tapped out and let Keith and Emre enjoy some shopping while I sat on a bench and people-watched.

From there we could walk back to our hotel over the Galata Koprusu bridge. 

My only recommendation for this tour would be to split it into two days - especially since your tour guide will be exceptionally knowledgeable and you'll learn alot.

Final Day - Walking around Karakoy Neighborhood and Bosphorus Sunset Cruise

After yesterday's grueling (yet rewarding!) tour, we slept in this morning since we had no agenda. We had breakfast, then Keith and I split up for a couple of hours (he wanted to walk to a shopping district and I wanted to walk to an historical area). I love submersing myself in a strange location and letting the languages, sights, and smells swirl around me. From our hotel, it was straight uphill to my destination, the Galata Tower. The path up was on narrow, cobblestone streets, and once I was there, I sat on a bench and just observed. Several school classes were in line to buy tickets to climb to the top of the tower and a few of the girls (3rd grade-ish) came over to me to say, "Hello, my name is ____". I think they were practicing their English, and once again - as a stranger in a strange land - I was embarrassed by my inability to speak only English. So I simply back, "Hello! My name is Laura." And they giggled and ran back to tell their teacher - then 3 more girls came over. All saying the same thing.

I watched as people: bought Koulouri, roasted corn, and/or chestnuts from street vendors; stood in front of a fountain for pictures; took selfies in front of the tower; and walked through the area. Once Keith joined me, we sat at an outdoor cafe and cafe for coffee and I took several pictures from the same seat trying to capture the diversity of the people coming through: women in mini-skirts and burkas, old and young, families and couples, etc.

For our final activity of the trip, we took a sunset cruise on the Bosphorus, which provided views of a few more sites that we hadn't been able to see: mosques, yalis, the Maiden's Tower, etc. It was a relaxing, beautiful experience. 

Final Notes on the Trip:

We are happy to have experienced all of this trip - no regrets. But if we could go back in time, this would be our agenda:

• Skip the cruise. Too much down time, and while we managed to read 3 books each, we can do that at home;

• Fly into Athens and spend 2-3 nights exploring the historical/mythological sites;

• Fly straight to Instanbul and spend the a week or two in Turkey. Do Istanbul first because seeing everything there will kick your ass (stairs, stairs, and more stairs) -- and then go to Ephesus, Bodrum, and a multitude of other places in Turkey that we didn't get to see (i.e., Cappadocia);

• Then end the trip with 3-4 days at a Greek resort on Santorini or another island (if we ever go back to Greece, it will be just for a resort).

The images below are in no order because Google sites does that - and it's the one major negative I have about Google sites, but it's a free service so...